We started our trip out by having a drink at Evelyn's and then dinner at Maximo's, our favorite restaurant. I had the ravioli...unbelievable! You just can't imagine how pasta and cheese filling can melt in your mouth the way this does. Andy's scallops and fire roasted shrimp were excellent too. While we were there we found out that the restaurant had only opened the weekend before from "the storm". We found out it had changed ownership during that time also but still had the same chef. We found some good music (a lady seemingly influenced by Billie Holiday) on our walk back to Bourbon street but we were pathetically tired and made it an early night.
We began the next day by walking by the river and making our way to the French Market. It is being reconstructed and is only half full of vendors right now. We did a little shopping and found out from one of the vendors that the locals have adopted the fluer-d-lis as the symbol of New Orleans' rebirth.
As we walked back past Lafayette Square we took a carriage ride through the Quarter. We were pulled by a mule named Knucklehead (it is illegal to use horses). We saw where the Louisana Purchase was signed on the second floor of one of the buildings. We also learned that building owners can change the inside of any building in the Quarter however they like but any changes to the exterior must be approved and can only be painted one of 27 colors. We saw the place that Brad and Angelina bought. We also learned that the oldest apartment buildings still in use (1849 and 1850) flank Lafayette Square. We grabbed some gumbo at Evelyn's Place, our usual home base, then changed hotels. The hotel we moved to was on the corner of Bourbon and Canal and probably the nicest I've ever stayed in.
Then we headed up to the Garden District, walked our feet off and took the trolley back.
Saturday night we ate at Bayona's and saw the chef, Susan Spicer, in person. The food was good. I can tell you that sweetbreads are not really bread. It is like lightly breaded, very tender meat with sauce and a lot of flavor. I highly recommend it. We then hooked up with Andy's boss for a few cocktails. We found some music at patio bar. While we were hanging out a lady came in with a big black lab. Of course we asked to pet him. Rudy the dog was standing behind Andy for quite a while and then plopped down by his feet. The lady said that he had a long walk and wanted to rest. Andy told me later that the dog had a thorough sniff of his ass and decided that he would be fine to hang out with. Cracked me up! Turns out he is the dog of the lead singer/trumpet player in the band.
After that Andy's boss pulled us into this crazy loud bar with a band singing Bon Jovi sing-along crap. Andy and I were not NEARLY drunk enough to hang out there. I thought I would have to sedate Andy. He and 80s big hair bands just don't mix. But the boss was REALLY into the place. I go to the bathroom there and happen to look at the feet in the next stall. They were wearing strappy shoes and facing the wrong direction for a women's bathroom if you get my drift. They were the nicest looking feet in drag I have ever seen.
We ended the night with one last drink at Evelyn's. Busy day!
Sunday started with the jazz brunch at Palace Cafe' with live music. We ate obscene amounts and then went back to the Garden District. We started out at Audubon Park and then found the BIG houses. They were really amazing. The architechure was influenced from all over the globe. Each house had its own personality, embracing the neighborhood in which it dwelled and still offering privacy with courtyards within. Andy said it makes you believe in ghosts...if you had a house that nice you wouldn't want to leave it.
We took the trolley back to the Quarter and later caluclated that we had walked 12-15 miles in two days. Well, with all that walking we worked up an appetite (not really, we were still full from brunch)but we went to Mr. B's that night with a client/friend of Andy's and the boss man. Those of you who know me well would be proud. I ATE CRAWFISH IN THE SHELL! I needed instruction, but I managed and it was delicious. I am not ashamed to admit that I had to turn the little guys upside down on my plate because I couldn't handle the little black, beady eyes staring at me while I finished the rest of my meal. I'm still not ready for oysters or anything similar.
After that we had a drink with Andy's work folk at Pat O'Brian's and I stole him away. We went in search of live music again and started at Lafitte's Bar. We also found another band on the way back to the hotel.
It was a very relaxing trip with more food than a human should consume in such a short time.
I flew out the next morning and Andy started his trade show. My connection to O'Hare was delyaed and I now vow never to travel through there if I can help it. The kids seemed happy to see me but obviously had a great time at my parents'. Now we are all home and while we wouldn't trade our kids for anything but we would trade the hot dogs for Maximo's ANY DAY!
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